I took it to a local welder, who welded the corners secure, I painted it and fitted it to the box section. tricky.Īs it happened, I had some angle iron in the garage and just started bending it and shaping it around the tiller until I came up with a steel frame. I needed to come up with a method that allowed me to tie the bridal cord to the stern of the canoe and allow the tiller to move the full range under it. The problem I then faced was the sweeping action of the tiller kept fouling with the sheet bridal cord and I couldn't get full range of movement from the tiller. Then by laying some plywood across the stern of my canoe, I figured a way to clamp it down using the gunwales and then started shaping and joining timber, building down until I had developed this box section to attach the rudder to.īecause I really like the idea of using a traditional tiller rather than the push/ pull system, I decided to stick with the Lark tiller design and simply replaced the old Lark tiller with some hardwood around 9 inches longer, so I could reach it. My next step was devise a method of attaching it to my canoe. Apparently the rudder was from a Lark sailing dinghy. I started by buying a rudder complete with head stock and tiller, from ebay. When I decided to start sailing my nearly new canoe, I tried to come up with a clip-on rudder system that meant I wouldn't have to drill any holes into the hull.
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